I could hear ice forming beneath my feet. The thundering booms created when the ice covering a lake expands can be unnerving, but at the same time this unmistakable sound is soothing. I'd jump each time the ice rumbled, but I also took solace in knowing that the only time the ice booms is when the temperature is cold enough to form new and safe ice.
My mind wandered and I began to wonder if the booms that echoed across the lake would spook or otherwise prevent the walleye population from feeding. A quick glance at a dead rod resting by my feet left little doubt that the minnow I had put into action earlier was very much alive and active. The rod tip jiggled in an almost predictable pattern as the minnow tried desperately to free himself.
Suddenly the rod tip stopped vibrating then quickly jerked downwards. Before I could reach down and grab the rod, it was already sliding across the ice. In a panic I grabbed for the rod, somehow catching the rod and setting the hook in the process. From my knees I gained my composure and began to take control of the fish. Fighting a walleye with a two foot long rod and thread like monofilament is a lesson in patience. Too much pressure at the wrong time almost guarantees the fish will break the line or pull the hook free.
Slowly I gained line on the fish, being careful to keep the delicate monofilament away from the edges of the hole as much as possible. It wasn't long before I could see flashes of the fish as it darted back and forth beneath me. As the fish neared the hole, I could feel myself getting even more tense. The last few seconds of the fight are always the most tenuous. If the fish hangs up at the bottom of the hole, the chances the fish will tear free are very good. Cautiously I tried to control the walleye and steer his head into the hole.
The second the fish's head slid into the hole I knew I had him. Walleyes don't swim backwards and the hole was too small for the fish to turn around in. I let the fish thrash around at the surface for a few seconds, and then gently slipped my fingers under his gill cover. In one quick motion the fish popped out of the water and lay flopping in the powdery snow.
Still attached to my hook the minnow gave a feeble flip of his tail. The moral of the story: don't underestimate the value of quality bait.
Selecting, storing and using live bait is always a challenge, but never more than during the winter months. Freezing weather can turn an ordinary bait bucket into an ice cube in a matter of minutes. Simply keeping bait containers upright and full of water is another challenge when bumping along the ice on a snow machine or ORV.
Taking the steps to insure good quality live bait is worth some extra preparation and investment in essential gear. Without that natural wiggle, action and scent, it can be a long wait between bites.
A FEW WORDS ON BAIT TYPES
Keeping live bait alive is always a challenge when ice fishing. Fortunately the types of bait ice fishermen require is more limited than that used by the typical open water angler. Minnows, wigglers (mayfly larva) and wax worms are the primary types of live bait used during the ice fishing season.
Minnows can range from tiny one inch long perch and crappie candidates to muskie minnows or spearing decoys that are often a foot long or larger. The most productive bait on any given body of water are native minnow species the fish are used to seeing and feeding on. Unfortunately, different types of minnows are found in different waters.
In Great Lakes waterways an emerald shiner, golden shiner or spottail shiner rank tops for perch, pike and walleye. These common minnows are found throughout the Great Lakes system and make up a significant percentage of the total forage base.
On inland waters throughout the Midwest these same three species are less likely to be found in large numbers. Instead fatheads, rainbow dace, suckers and chubs form the majority of the minnow population.
Matching up the right bait with the right waters is not always easy and may require telephoning a number of bait dealers or bait wholesalers to see which types of minnows are readily available. In or around the Great Lakes emerald shiners and spottails are commonly trapped or netted by bait wholesalers who most often sell these delicate minnows locally. Other more durable minnow species like fatheads are commonly raised in ponds for the purpose of fish bait and are shipped widely to bait dealers.
Wigglers are the larva stage of mayflies. Readily available and a common live bait for deep water perch fishing, wigglers are also used for fishing lake whitefish and round whitefish.
Wax worms are the most common insect larva used among ice fishermen. The perfect bait for panfish such as bluegills, crappie, sunfish and perch, wax worms and other live "grubs" are sold primarily during the winter, but they also make excellent panfish bait during the open water periods.
STORING/HANDLING MINNOWS
For every live minnow that generates a walleye, pike or perch bite, three or four others end up motionless in a bait bucket. Overcrowding and the resulting oxygen depletion is the number one reason baitfish croak before they can be put into service. A typical bait bucket without the benefit of an aeration system can only support a couple dozen perch sized minnows for a few hours. If too many minnows are crowded into the bucket, they will soon die of oxygen depletion.
A bait bucket equipped with one of several different types of aeration systems is critical to keeping minnows alive for extended periods of time. Frabill Inc., based out of Jackson Wisconsin is the nation's leading producer of aeration systems and aerated bait containers. Anglers can choose from aeration systems designed to operate on battery power, 110 volt current and inexpensive aeration tablets that simply need to be dropped into the bait bucket to create life sustaining oxygen.
A 110 volt aeration system is ideal for keeping minnows healthy at home in the garage or basement between fishing trips. Bait that's not used can be kept for several days until the next fishing trip, by simply plugging in the aeration system and dropping the aeration stone into the bait bucket.
Frabill also produces several different portable battery operated aeration systems that are designed to clip onto an ordinary bait bucket. Two D size batteries will produce up to 80 hours of aeration.
To store and transport larger amounts of minnows the Aqua-Life Bait Station features an insulated six gallon bucket with the aeration system built into the weather tight lid. This system can operate off two D style batteries or from any 12 volt battery source when a special adaptor cord is employed.
If space and weight is at a premium, the Min-O-Life insulated and aerated cooler makes sense. Designed around a personal sized cooler with a snap closed lid, the design of this product can support two or three times as many minnows as an ordinary bait bucket. The Min-O-Life cooler also comes with a built-in minnow net that makes it easy to access bait without getting your fingers wet. Because the lid snaps securely closed, there is also no risk of dumping the bait in transit.
STORING/HANDLING WIGGLERS
Like minnows wigglers require high amounts of dissolved oxygen in the water to survive. An insulated container that prevents the water from freezing and a battery operated aeration system is essential. Wigglers are exceptionally delicate. Dead wigglers should be removed from the water immediately. Crush up these dead wigglers and let the debris settle down into the water. The scent of the wigglers along with the tiny bits of food will attract minnows and keep game fish in the area.
STORING/HANDLING GRUBS
Wax worms and other live grubs are generally packed in small plastic containers for sale. Placing one of these containers in your jacket pocket is a guarantee that grubs and sawdust will soon litter your pocket!
An empty snuff can makes a good container for holding three or four dozen grubs and a little sawdust. Durable enough to avoid being crushed and small enough to slip into a shirt or jacket pocket, be sure to poke a few holes in the top so the grubs can breath.
To keep live grubs happy and healthy, they should be kept at a temperature of 40-50 degrees as much as possible. When not fishing, store your grubs in a refrigerator. If the grubs are left exposed to room temperature, their metabolism speeds up and they soon hatch into adult insects. Take special attention to remove the dead (they turn black) grubs from the container promptly to prevent your bait can from smelling like a garbage can.
The Lindy Grub Getter is the ideal plastic storage container for wax worms and other live grubs. This inexpensive accessory prevents the grubs from being spilled in your pocket or ice fishing bucket and can be stored in the refrigerator between trips.
Because wax worms and other grubs are soft and delicate they don't stay on a fish hook for long. Bait robbing panfish are a fact of ice fishing. Rebaiting frequently is the only way to combat this problem. To keep panfish feeding in the area, periodically try crushing a few wax worms and letting the debris settle slowly through the water column.
SUMMARY
Ice fishing is hard on fishermen, gear and bait. Freezing conditions are the worst for storing, transporting and using live bait. Despite these hardships, the benefits of using live bait are never more important to fishing success. A little advance preparation and a few key pieces of bait storing equipment will insure your investment in live bait is fully enjoyed.